Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5

Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 chronicles a profound return to a landscape that once provided an escape for a young man fleeing his old life. At nineteen years old, Rick Stein first encountered the Australian continent following the death of his father, finding a sense of liberation that would permanently alter his worldview. This specific journey is more than a mere travel log; it is a re-examination of a second home through the lens of a lifetime spent exploring food. The vastness of the country, which he once saw as remote and inaccessible, has since evolved into a sophisticated network of culinary hubs and agricultural innovation.

Today, this exploration into the heart of the country highlights how the most arid inhabited continent in the world has been reshaped by human ingenuity. By traveling south from the dusty outback, the focus shifts to a region where water has turned barren desolation into a lush food bowl. The regional Australia experience is defined here by the meeting of ancient landscapes and modern agricultural techniques. It is a place where travel food is not just a necessity but a reflection of the diverse cultural waves that have settled the land. Understanding this transformation requires looking at both the natural environment and the people who have committed themselves to its productivity.

In Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5, the transition from the scrubby vegetation of the outback to the fertile plains of the Riverina serves as a central theme. The Riverina, named for the Murrumbidgee and Murray waterways that define its borders, represents a triumph of engineering and perseverance. For millennia, these plains were the home of the First Nations Wiradjuri people, but the last century has seen the land entirely reshaped by agriculture. The modern culinary journey through this area reveals a deep connection to the soil and a willingness to reinvent traditional farming practices. It is a territory where sustainable food is often born out of a necessity to adapt to a changing climate and market.

The significance of this region lies in its ability to support a wide array of food producers who are often moving away from conventional farming. The transcript follows the path of those who have given up normal agricultural pursuits to embrace niche industries, such as emu farming. These efforts highlight the evolving nature of the Australian food scene, where curiosity and a “give it a go” attitude define the lifestyle. As a travel destination, this part of the country offers a unique perspective on how migrants have integrated their heritage into the local environment. This integration has resulted in a rich tapestry of flavors that are now recognized as essential components of the national identity.

Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 explores the concept of reinvention, not just in the land, but in the people who inhabit it. The journey is marked by encounters with individuals who have moved across the world or across industries to find a new purpose. Whether it is an Italian migrant seeking solitude in a cave or a third-century winemaker perfecting a dessert wine, the spirit of the pioneer is ever-present. This spirit is what allows regional Australia to thrive, turning harsh conditions into opportunities for growth and culinary excellence. The outdoor cooking and local produce found here are a testament to this enduring resilience.

As the journey progresses, the focus shifts toward the specific flavors and techniques that define the Riverina’s output. From the richness of emu eggs to the complexity of Botrytis-affected wines, the diversity of the local produce is staggering. The influence of European migrants, particularly from Italy and Greece, has left an indelible mark on the towns and the food culture. These settlers brought with them not only seeds and vines but also a lifestyle that prioritizes long lunches and community gatherings. This cultural heritage continues to be a driving force in the region’s hospitality and agricultural education.

The transition toward the coast brings a change in scenery and a reminder of the historical folklore that permeates the Australian psyche. Songs and poetry about the road to Gundagai or the legendary bushrangers provide a romantic backdrop to the practical realities of farming and cooking. These stories of the past are intertwined with the present, influencing the way modern chefs and producers view their work. It is a place where the “democracy sausage” at a polling booth is as much a part of the food culture as a Michelin-starred technique applied to local quail.

In Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5, the narrative arc moves from the dry, dusty plains to the vibrant, green south coast. Each stop along the way provides a deeper understanding of what it means to live and eat in contemporary Australia. The final recipes created during the trip serve as a tribute to the ingredients and people encountered, blending Italian classics with Australian soul. This is a comprehensive look at a region that continues to reinvent itself, proving that even the most arid lands can become a source of boundless inspiration and nourishment.

Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5

Reinventing Agriculture Through Emu Farming in Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5

The journey into the Riverina begins with a visit to Ian Marston, a farmer who has spent thirty years perfecting the art of emu farming. This shift away from traditional cattle farming was born from economic necessity; Marston found that the cattle market was not providing the returns needed to sustain his livelihood. The emu, a bird that Rick Stein first saw while hitchhiking in the 1960s, is an extraordinary creature that seems more like a prehistoric dinosaur than a standard farm animal. With over 750 birds, Marston’s farm is a prime example of how food producers in regional Australia are exploring niche markets to find success.

The biology and behavior of the emu provide a fascinating look at the unique inhabitants of the Australian lifestyle. Marston explains that the females make a deep drumming noise from their throats, while the males are limited to a grunting vocabulary. Interestingly, the social structure of the emu is one where the males take on the responsibility of sitting on the eggs, while the females move between different mates. This “party” lifestyle of the female emu is a point of humor for the farmers, but it also highlights the hardy and self-sufficient nature of the birds. They are even known to dig holes in the ground in anticipation of rain, demonstrating an innate connection to the arid environment.

Beyond the novelty of the birds themselves, emu farming provides a range of products including meat, leather, and decorative feathers. However, the most significant recent development for these food producers is the discovery of the health benefits of emu oil. Rendered from the fat of the bird, this oil is rich in vitamin K2, which is believed to boost cardiovascular and dental health. An older bird can yield between twelve and fifteen kilograms of fat, making the oil a highly valuable commodity in a booming market. This focus on sustainable food and medicinal properties is a clear indicator of how Australian food is changing to meet global health trends.

The Culinary Versatility of the Emu Egg

In Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5, the exploration of the emu extends into the kitchen, where the massive green eggs become a focal point for outdoor cooking. A single emu egg is equivalent to approximately eight to ten chicken eggs, making it more than sufficient for a large omelette. The ratio of yolk to white is about 10% higher than that of a hen’s egg, which results in a finished dish that is incredibly rich and vibrantly colored. This richness is a hallmark of the local produce found in the Riverina, where the intensity of flavor often surprises those used to more conventional ingredients.

The preparation of an emu egg omelette requires a simple approach to allow the natural quality of the egg to shine. Stein emphasizes using butter to create a nutty, slightly brown flavor in the pan before adding the whisked egg. The addition of Parmesan cheese and fresh pepper provides a “tang” that complements the richness of the yolk. The technique used is the French baveuse style, where the center remains soft and slightly liquid, ensuring a fluffy texture. This blend of European technique and unique Australian ingredients is a recurring theme throughout the culinary journey.

Eating an emu egg omelette while overlooking a vista of distant emus provides a moment of reflection on the potential of regional Australia. The experience is described as a “friend for life,” noting that while the birds are commercial animals rather than pets, they are inquisitive and friendly, often attempting to eat the clothes of visitors. This interaction between the farmer, the chef, and the animal highlights the authentic connection to the land that defines the Australian food scene. It is a reminder that the most unexpected ingredients can produce the most rewarding results when handled with respect and skill.

The Engineering Marvel of the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme

A significant portion of Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 is dedicated to understanding how the Riverina became such a productive agricultural hub. The transformation began in 1907 with the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme, one of the nation’s first major building projects. This elaborate system of dams, canals, and holding ponds diverted water from the Murrumbidgee River to create 1.6 million acres of viable farmland. Before this intervention, explorers like John Oxley described the area as a place of “barren desolation” that wearied the spirit. The contrast between that historical perspective and the current landscape of neat, green fields is a testament to human persistence.

This irrigation project did more than just water the soil; it brought a wave of new settlers and migrants to regional Australia. After World War I, people from across Europe arrived looking for work and a place to call home, bringing their agricultural expertise with them. The town of Griffith, located at the heart of the scheme, grew into a substantial country town characterized by its abundance and order. The greenery seen from lookouts like Scenic Hill is a visual representation of the success of this engineering feat. It represents a collective effort to tame a harsh environment and turn it into a sustainable food source for the entire country.

The impact of the irrigation scheme is also seen in the unique stories of those who settled in the area. One notable figure is Valerio Ricetti, known as the Hermit of Scenic Hill, an Italian stonemason who lived in a cave as a recluse for decades. Using his skills, he built a “utopia” that included a kitchen and a barbecue area, demonstrating that even those seeking solitude were drawn to the potential of this land. This history of reinvention is a core part of the region’s identity, showing that the Riverina has always been a place where people can build a new life from the ground up.

The Evolution of Australian Wine Culture

The Italian migrants who arrived in the Riverina brought with them a deep-seated love for viticulture, which fundamentally changed the Australian food and drink landscape. Initially, the Australian market favored fortified wines like English-style sherry and port, which Stein recalls as being sold in half-gallon glass jars during the 1960s. It wasn’t until 1972 that the consumption of table wine finally overtook fortified varieties in Australia. This shift was led by family-run wineries that persisted in growing the grapes they loved from the “old country,” despite the prevailing local preferences of the time.

One of the most prominent names in this industry is De Bortoli, a winery that produces a staggering 30 million liters of wine annually. The family history began in 1928 when the founder, unable to sell his grapes during the depression, decided to make his own wine. This move was a classic example of the “give it a go” attitude that defines many food producers in regional Australia. Today, the winery exports to over 75 countries, but it remains a family-run operation where multiple generations work side-by-side. This continuity is essential for maintaining the quality and tradition of the brand while also allowing for modern innovation.

The creation of the “Noble One” dessert wine by Darren De Bortoli is a highlight of the winery’s history. Originally called a Sauternes before French naming restrictions were implemented in the 1990s, this wine is made from grapes affected by “noble rot” or Botrytis cinerea. Despite the Riverina being considered too hot and dry for this style of wine, the high humidity of the autumn months provides the perfect conditions for the fungus to thrive. The resulting wine is sweet and complex, with an acidity that allows it to age for decades. Tasting a bottle from 1982 proves that these wines can stand the test of time, retaining their fruit and vibrancy long after they were bottled.

Cultural Heritage and the Italian Influence in Griffith

The town of Griffith stands out as a unique cultural enclave within regional Australia, possessing one of the highest proportions of Italian ancestry in the country. Nearly one in four people in the town are of Italian descent, and this heritage is visible in the numerous Italian cafes and businesses that line the main street. This influence has created a food culture that is quite different from other Australian country towns, blending traditional European flavors with local ingredients. Walking through the town, one finds panetterias serving traditional biscotti and gelato alongside classic Australian favorites like meat pies and lamingtons.

Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 highlights the importance of preserving this heritage through family businesses like Bertoldo’s. Here, the traditional Sicilian cannoli, filled with lemon-flavored ricotta, is a staple that rivals those found in Italy. The graininess and lightness of the ricotta provide a texture that is less rich than standard pastry cream, offering a perfect accompaniment to a flat white coffee. This presence of high-quality coffee and authentic pastries is a direct result of the migrant waves that reshaped the town’s social and culinary fabric. It is a psyche that residents believe will last forever, even as the town continues to grow and diversify.

The Piccolo family represents another branch of this Italian influence, having introduced the concept of agritourism to the Riverina. This model, which started in Italy, involves inviting tourists to visit farms for tours, farm shops, and farm-based dining. For the Piccolos, this was a matter of necessity; as farming became more large-scale and expensive, small lots were no longer viable as purely agricultural entities. By opening their farm to the public and hosting “long lunches,” they have found a way to keep the land in the family and provide agricultural education to visitors. This innovative approach to the Australian lifestyle ensures that the farm remains a productive and relevant part of the community.

Culinary Excellence and Sustainable Practices at the Piccolo Family Farm

The agricultural journey continues at the Piccolo Family Farm, where the focus is on growing specialized local produce that fuels a high-end restaurant experience. Peter Piccolo, a pioneer of agritourism in the region, manages a farm that is a “delight to the eye,” characterized by its order and productivity. The farm produces ingredients that are essential for authentic Italian cooking, such as San Marzano tomatoes, which are ideal for pizza and sauces. They also grow radicchio and chicory, bitter greens that add a complex dimension to savory dishes. This commitment to variety over monoculture is a hallmark of the new wave of food producers in regional Australia.

Luke Piccolo, Peter’s son and a highly respected young chef, has utilized his experience growing up in Griffith to create a signature style that blends tradition with modern technique. His culinary education began by cooking gnocchi and zucchini fritters with his grandmother after school, a “fairy-tale” start that instilled a deep respect for ingredients. After working in a Michelin-starred restaurant in Sardinia, Luke returned home with the realization that he could replicate the farm-to-table model in the Riverina. He persuaded his father to diversify the family’s twenty acres of citrus into a more varied and sustainable array of produce to support his restaurant.

One of the signature dishes featured in Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 is a local quail dish that uses the whole bird to create a rich, sweet sauce. The quail bits are sautéed in butter and deglazed with wine, then simmered with fresh figs from the garden to provide a natural thickening agent and sweetness. The quails themselves are stuffed with lemon and herbs, then roasted to a golden brown.

This dish is served on a bed of polenta with braised chicory, which is seasoned with the family’s own “vino cotto”—a traditional Italian condiment made from reduced grape syrup. The balance between the bitterness of the greens and the sweetness of the syrup creates a “hidden dimension” of flavor that defines the high-quality travel food found in this region.

The Social and Cultural Ritual of the Democracy Sausage

A detour in the journey brings the focus to a unique aspect of the Australian lifestyle: the national election and the accompanying “sausage sizzle.” In Australia, voting is compulsory, and elections are traditionally held on Saturdays, turning the polling station into a social event. Central to this experience is the barbecue set up by local school groups or charities to raise funds. The “democracy sausage,” as it has been nicknamed, consists of a barbecued beef sausage served on a single slice of white bread with fried onions and tomato or barbecue sauce. This humble “snag” has become a cornerstone of the country’s political and social culture.

Stein’s visit to a polling station highlights the community spirit that exists in regional Australia, where politics is discussed over a barbecue. While the beef sausage might differ from the British pork banger, its significance lies in its role as a cultural unifier. The tradition of the sausage sizzle dates back to the 1980s when portable barbecues became common, allowing these events to pop up anywhere people gathered.

For Stein, who has been a resident for twenty years but is not a citizen, the experience of the sausage sizzle is a way to feel like a “proper Aussie” even without the ability to cast a vote. It is a reminder that food often serves as the primary gateway into the heart of a nation’s culture.

The simplicity of the sausage sizzle stands in stark contrast to the sophisticated Italian cuisine found elsewhere in the Riverina, yet both are equally representative of the Australian food scene. One is a product of recent migrant history, while the other is a long-standing social ritual. Together, they illustrate the range of experiences available to those on a culinary journey through the country. Whether it is a “three-course meal” in a bun or a slow-cooked ragu, the emphasis is always on quality local produce and a shared sense of community. This blend of the high and the low is what makes the Australian food culture so accessible and vibrant.

The Folklore and History of the Road to Gundagai

The move east toward the coast follows the Murrumbidgee River toward the historic town of Gundagai, a place deeply embedded in Australian folklore. The region is immortalized in songs like “Along the Road to Gundagai,” which expresses a nostalgic yearning for a childhood home among the gum trees. This romanticized view of the bush is a significant part of the national identity, reflecting a time when the landscape was a place of adventure and early colonial settlement. Stein’s own memories of traveling this road in the 1960s add a personal layer to the exploration of this historic territory.

A key landmark just outside the town is the statue of the “Dog on the Tucker Box,” which commemorates a famous bush poem about a faithful dog guarding his master’s food. This old verse tells the story of a teamster whose wagon becomes bogged in a creek, and his dog’s refusal to leave the tucker box. While the poem has various versions, its popularity led to the creation of a permanent monument that remains a popular stop for travelers. This connection between poetry, history, and food—the “tucker box”—highlights how deeply the concept of nourishment is tied to the Australian story.

Gundagai itself, established in the 1830s and enriched by the gold rush of the 1850s, retains an easy-going, nostalgic feel. With a population of around 2,000 people, the town is full of traces of its colonial past. However, for a visitor from Britain, the town also offers an unexpected connection to the “milk bar” culture of the mid-twentieth century. These establishments, often run by Greek migrants, became the social hubs of country towns, serving American-style milkshakes and hamburgers. This fusion of American glamour, Greek business acumen, and Australian ingredients created a unique culinary niche that persists to this day.

The Legacy of the Greek Milk Bar and the Aussie Burger

The Niagara Cafe in Gundagai is recognized as the oldest Greek cafe and milk bar in Australia, having been built in 1902. It served as the inspiration for a wave of similar establishments across the country, which introduced Australians to the concept of fast food long before global chains arrived. These cafes featured glamorous Art Deco interiors, fountain bars, and domed ceilings, with much of the decor imported directly from the United States. They provided a space where local youth could experience a slice of American culture while enjoying a “chocolate malted milkshake” served in a classic aluminium container.

The centerpiece of the milk bar experience is the “Aussie burger with the lot,” a uniquely Australian take on the American classic. This version of the burger is distinguished by its inclusion of specific ingredients like canned beetroot, fried eggs, bacon, cheese, and sometimes pineapple. The use of beetroot is particularly interesting, believed to have originated from a surplus of canned food after the opening of large-canneries in Australia. Stein notes that the combination of the earthy beetroot, the salty bacon, and the rich egg creates a “serious” meal that is far more substantial than a standard hamburger.

Meeting Peter Castrission, whose family operated the Niagara Cafe for over a century, provides insight into why Greek migrants were so successful in this industry. They were astute businessmen who recognized that Gundagai, being halfway between Sydney and Melbourne, was a prime location for a refreshment room. By adopting the name “Niagara,” they tapped into the Americanization that was popular in the 1950s and 60s. This history of the milk bar is a vital part of the regional Australia narrative, showing how different migrant groups have contributed to the “wonder cafes” that defined a generation’s social life.

The Legend and Redemption of Captain Moonlite

The history of Gundagai is not just one of commerce and cafes; it is also a place of notorious legends born of the gold rush. The wealth generated by the goldfields attracted bushrangers—outlaws who conducted hold-ups on the unguarded roads leading in and out of town. One of the most famous of these figures is Andrew George Scott, better known as Captain Moonlite, who is buried in the town’s cemetery. Stein expresses a common fascination with these “poor, desperate criminals,” who are often romanticized as Robin Hood figures despite their violent lives.

In 1879, Moonlite and his gang were involved in a deadly gunfight with police at a station near Gundagai. The conflict resulted in the death of a policeman and several gang members, including James Nesbitt, a man to whom Moonlite was deeply attached. Historical accounts describe Moonlite weeping over Nesbitt’s body, kissing him passionately—a display of grief that led to his capture. Moonlite was eventually hanged in Sydney in 1880, but his final request was to be buried with Nesbitt. He wrote from prison, “I long to join him where there shall be no more parting,” expressing a bond that many modern observers believe was a romantic one.

A century after his death, a campaign by local women led to Moonlite’s remains being reburied in Gundagai near Nesbitt’s unmarked grave. The site is now heritage-listed, and Moonlite has been reinvented as a folklore hero rather than a simple criminal. This story of reinvention mirrors Stein’s own feelings about Australia as a place where people can “give it a go” and become whoever they want to be. Whether through the lens of a bushranger’s redemption or a chef’s new career, the spirit of starting over is a defining characteristic of life in the Riverina.

A Tribute to the Riverina: Slow-Cooked Beef Ragu

The culinary journey through Rick Stein’s Australia episode 5 concludes with a recipe that pays tribute to the people and ingredients of the Riverina. This “take on a great Italian classic” is a ragu of slow-cooked shin of beef served with pappardelle. Shin of beef is chosen specifically for its connective tissue, which melts over several hours of cooking to create a luscious, tender texture. This process of slow-cooking reflects the patience and dedication of the food producers Stein encountered throughout the region, from the emu farmers to the winemakers.

The base of the ragu is a classic mirepoix of carrots, celery, onion, and garlic, which provides a balance of sweetness and herby notes. The beef is browned to add a caramel flavor and deep color to the sauce before being simmered with tinned tomatoes, beef stock, and a full-bodied red wine like Shiraz. The addition of “vino cotto” from the Piccolo farm provides a “lift” and a subtle sweetness that distinguishes this ragu from a standard Bolognese. This inclusion of a specific local condiment is a direct nod to the agritourism and heritage of Griffith.

The finished dish is served with fresh pappardelle, chosen for its large surface area which allows the rich sauce to cling to the pasta. Finished with olive oil and a generous amount of Parmesan cheese, the ragu is described as “deep, round, and comforting.” It is a dish designed to cheer up a “dull day,” proving that food is as much about emotional nourishment as it is about physical sustenance. Pairing the meal with a “gulp of red” achieves a sense of culinary perfection that summarizes the entire trip through New South Wales.

This exploration of the Riverina reveals a region that has been entirely transformed by the intersection of water, migration, and innovation. From the engineering of the irrigation scheme to the “democracy sausage” at the polls, every element of the journey tells a story of a nation that is constantly evolving. The food producers and chefs who call this area home are not just making meals; they are preserving a heritage and building a sustainable future. As the trip moves toward the final leg on the south coast, the lessons of the Riverina—the importance of reinvention and the value of a “give it a go” spirit—remain at the forefront of the Australian identity.

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