Chris and Meg’s Wild Summer Episode 6 – In the concluding chapter of their grand expedition, Chris and Meg set their course towards the enchanting Western Isles, located in the remote northern reaches of Scotland. As they embark on a ferry, the crisp air is filled with anticipation. The breathtaking voyage is immediately graced by the majestic sight of a minke whale, elegantly cutting through the cold blue waters. A playful pod of dolphins joins the panorama, delighting the couple with their aquatic dance, all before they even set foot on the isles’ rugged shores. Upon their arrival on the ethereal Isle of Harris, Chris and Meg’s excitement reaches a new zenith. No sooner do they exit the car park than the regal white-tailed eagles welcome them, soaring gracefully under the expansive Scottish skies. As they journey farther, the majestic hills unfold the sight of the golden eagles, standing as guardians of the highlands, basking in their natural splendour.
Their adventure continues in the quaint village of Bragar on the Isle of Lewis. Here, they stand in awe before the historical Whalebone Arch. This unique garden gate, intricately crafted from the jawbones of a blue whale, stands as a testament to the leviathan that washed up on the nearby beach over a century ago, binding the past with the present in a delicate embrace.
The journey’s enchantment persists as they navigate the waters from Stornoway Harbour on a robust boat. The seas prove bounteous as they are greeted by the elusive Risso’s dolphins, their substantial dorsal fins painting a majestic portrait against the backdrop of the boundless ocean. Often mistaken for the formidable orcas, these gentle giants of the sea prove to be a larger and rarer spectacle, adding a thrilling page to the couple’s travel tale. As the final day of their extraordinary journey dawns, Meg unveils a heartwarming surprise for Chris. She leads him to the abode of Steve Dilworth, a revered artist residing on the Isle of Harris. Thirty years prior, Chris’s heart was captivated by Steve’s compelling artwork. Steve’s masterpieces, preserving the bodies of birds found on the island in elaborate caskets crafted from natural elements, serve as a poignant homage to the often-overlooked beauty of wildlife.
In the embrace of the breathtaking white sands of Luskentyre Beach, Chris and Meg commemorate the conclusion of their unforgettable journey. With the serene waves whispering tales of ancient times, they raise a glass filled with the island’s local gin. The elixir, infused with sugar kelp from the vibrant surrounding waters, perfectly encapsulates the essence of their remarkable odyssey through the Western Isles of Scotland.
Chris and Meg’s Wild Summer Episode 6
The final leg of Chris and Meg’s journey takes them to the Western Isles in the far north of Scotland. Meg spots a minke whale and a pod of dolphins on the ferry before they even reach the isles!
Marvelling at Scotland’s Abundant Wildlife
On the Isle of Harris, the pair are delighted to see white-tailed eagles almost as soon as they leave the car park, before spotting several golden eagles up in the hills. The white-tailed eagle, also known as the sea eagle, is one of the largest birds of prey in the UK. With a wingspan of up to 8 feet, these majestic raptors were driven to extinction in Scotland by persecution during the early 20th century. A successful reintroduction program began in the 1970s, and now over 130 breeding pairs exist across Scotland, many of which can be spotted on the Western Isles (White-tailed Eagle Facts, White-tailed Eagle Habitat, White-tailed Eagle Conservation).
The golden eagle is Britain’s largest bird of prey, instantly recognizable thanks to its golden brown plumage and prominent yellow beak. Found in the remote glens and moorlands of the Scottish Highlands, around 500 pairs remain, making the Western Isles a prime spot for sightings (Golden Eagle Facts, Golden Eagle Habitat, Golden Eagle Conservation). Seeing both species on one island is a special treat for any wildlife enthusiast. Chris and Meg feel honoured to witness these iconic raptors in the wild.
Discovering Local History at the Whalebone Arch
Next, they make a stop in Bragar on the Isle of Lewis to marvel at the Whalebone Arch – a garden gate fashioned from the jaw bones of a blue whale which washed up on a nearby beach over 100 years ago. Made from the two huge lower jaws, it measures over 10 feet tall and 16 feet wide. Local legend says a fierce storm blew the whale onto shore in 1920, leading to the construction of this unique monument from its bones (Whalebone Arch history, Whalebone Arch photos, Whalebone Arch tours).
For Chris, it’s a poignant reminder of how people’s relationship with wildlife has changed over the past century. Where once a whale’s carcass was viewed as little more than a valuable resource, today conservationists recognize the importance of safeguarding all creatures great and small. Seeing Meg photograph the arch, Chris hopes that her generation will continue to advocate for the world’s wildlife.
Risso’s Dolphins Display Off Stornoway
Later, they head out on a boat from Stornoway Harbour and are treated to a display by a pod of Risso’s dolphins. Often mistaken for orcas due to their sizeable dorsal fins, Risso’s dolphins are larger and harder to spot than their common cousins. Named after the 19th-century Italian anatomist who first identified them, Risso’s dolphins can grow up to 12 feet long and tend to live in small groups of 10-50. Their grey skin appears scarred due to bites from other Risso’s dolphins during social interactions.
Found in temperate and tropical waters globally, scientists believe groups around the coastal waters of the Hebrides may represent some of the most northerly populations. Seeing them perform majestic leaps from the water leaves Chris and Meg spellbound (Risso’s dolphin facts, Risso’s dolphin habitat, Risso’s dolphin conservation). One member of the pod even approaches the boat and looks the pair directly in the eyes. Chris remarks this is one of the most moving wildlife encounters of his life.
Chris Revisits an Inspiring Local Artist
On the last day of the trip, Meg has a surprise for Chris as she takes him to visit Steve Dilworth, an artist living on the Isle of Harris, whose work Chris fell in love with when he visited the island 30 years ago. Steve preserves the bodies of birds found around the island in ornate caskets made from natural materials like driftwood and stone. Each displays incredible artistry, eloquently memorializing the deceased.
Steve explains how examining these birds up close, holding their fragile bodies in his hands, engendered an overwhelming sense of admiration for nature’s craftsmanship. This inspired his unique sculptures which reverently contrast the raw beauty of the natural materials against the delicate preserved forms within (Steve Dilworth birds, Steve Dilworth caskets, Steve Dilworth exhibitions).
Chris is moved to tears, his deep respect for wildlife resonating profoundly with Steve’s ethos. Seeing the care taken to honour a single skylark helps reset Chris’s perspective – reminding him that the natural world deserves to be cherished in all its minute details.
Relaxing on Luskentyre’s Pristine Sands
On the stunning white sands of Luskentyre Beach, Chris and Meg toast their trip with a glass of local gin infused with sugar kelp from the island. This beach is often voted one of the most beautiful in the world thanks to its turquoise waters, views of the hills of Harris and expanse of ivory sand.
With hardly another person in sight, Chris and Meg sit listening to the gentle lap of waves, reflecting on the incredible variety of wildlife they’ve witnessed over the past weeks. From orcas to red squirrels, pine martens to minke whales, Scotland’s magnificent natural heritage never fails to inspire. The golden eagles soaring over Harris are the perfect farewell gift.
Exploring the Remote Islands by Ferry
To reach the Western Isles, Chris and Meg take the ferry from Ullapool on the mainland. This provides the perfect opportunity to begin spotting wildlife from the water. Minke whales are the most common species found in the seas around Scotland, recognizable by their pointed snout and mostly black back. Growing up to 10 meters long, they feed on sand eels, krill and small fish, making summer the best time to observe them when food is plentiful. Seeing them surface near the boat delights Meg, who dreams of one day swimming with these gentle giants (minke whale facts, minke whale habitat, minke whale conservation).
The acrobatic dolphins they spot are likely bottlenose or common dolphins – the species most prevalent in the cooler coastal waters of northern Britain. Their agile displays and social nature enchant ferry passengers young and old. Researchers suggest each dolphin has a unique whistle used to identify itself, with captive dolphins recorded mimicking the whistles of dolphins they share a close bond with. So the casual observer is likely hearing complex communications between pod members (dolphin facts, dolphin habitat, dolphin intelligence)!
Experiencing the Rugged Lewis Landscape
The largest island in the Western Isles, Lewis offers diverse landscapes from the barren expanse of the peatlands to the dramatic cliffs of the coastline. On Harris, Chris and Meg traverse the single-track roads between golden beaches and lochs reflecting the clouds above. At the Butt of Lewis, they stand atop the lighthouse looking down on waves crashing against imposing stone cliffs. Surveying the wilderness around them, it sinks in just how far they are from the rest of Britain.
Here in the Outer Hebrides, life carries on at nature’s pace, transported by ferry not motorway. Sheep graze the machair grassland, moving between black houses when the weather turns. Rare corncrake calls punctuate the night air, their breeding grounds protected on these precious islands. Standing together at the UK’s most northerly point, Chris and Meg breathe in the solitude.
Sampling Fresh Island Cooking
Sustained by the sea, the cuisine of the Western Isles offers tastes found nowhere else. Locally harvested scallops, crab and lobster feature heavily – their fresh sweetness enhanced by the cool clean water. At the Stornoway Smokehouse, kippers and smoked salmon make the perfect picnic fare, while Michelin-starred restaurants in town serve langoustines and monkfish you won’t soon forget.
On their way through villages, Chris and Meg pop into quaint cafes for authentic home cooking. Here the star is Stornoway black pudding – the islands’ signature blood sausage – served with fluffy oatcakes. Its unique richness comes from the Hebridean sheep grazed on aromatic seaweed. Washed down with a dram of peaty single malt, it’s a tasty treat that encapsulates the essence of island life.
Understanding the Islands’ History
Beyond the rich wildlife and dramatic scenery, the cultures woven into the Western Isles’ history fascinate Chris and Meg as they travel between Lewis and Harris. They pause at stone circles like Callanish, erected around 3000 BCE for ancient rituals. The famous chessmen at Lews Castle offer a glimpse into the islands’ Norse heritage when they were part of a maritime empire stretching to Iceland and Greenland.
In more recent times, the Highland Clearances saw tenants evicted and villages abandoned. Remnants of blackhouses tell of communities subsisting off crofting and kelp harvesting under the clan system. At the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, they witness a lost way of life preserved. Standing stones appear unexpectedly along the single-track roads, each marking its own story.
Watching Marine Life from Shore
While the boat trip rewards them with spectacular Risso’s dolphin views, Chris and Meg discover ample opportunities to watch wildlife from shore. At Miavaig Beach, grey and common seals pop their heads up curiously as the pair eat a picnic above the shoreline. They learn to recognize seals by the Roman noses (grey) versus dog-like snouts (common). Far out near the horizon, a sunfish’s distinct rounded silhouette hints at secrets below the waves.
Along the coastline, fulmars and kittiwakes nest precariously on cliff edges, riding the updrafts on pointed wings. Gannets plunge like missiles into the sea, regrouping with fish in their beaks. At sunset on Tolsta Head, they watch a pod of common dolphins herding fish into the shallows, their arched fins lit golden. Back on land, ravens croak overhead, curlews pipe hauntingly, and the ever-present call of the oystercatcher accompanies their footsteps.
Adventuring Along Scenic Trails
Beyond scenic driving routes, the Western Isles offer countless trails and footpaths for hiking and cycling. On South Harris, Chris and Meg wander through the lunar-like landscape of the Stonefield peatlands. Strange rock formations protrude from the boggy earth, overhung with wispy lichen. They catch sight of an elusive mountain hare, its coat turned white as winter approaches.
Nearby, the hills of the Golden Road beckon keen hikers and bikers. Sweeping ridges unfold views over turquoise bays dotted with islands. Those looking for a challenge can summit Clisham, the highest peak in the Outer Hebrides. More ambles lead past lochans to sheltered coves. Wherever your wanderings take you, respect for the environment is sacrosanct in this fragile landscape.
Getting Back to Basics in Nature
Sleeping under canvas, Chris and Meg immerse themselves fully in the elements. The simplicity of campfire cooking and washing in streams rekindles a primal connection with the outdoors. Rising with the sun, they feel intimately attuned to nature’s rhythm. Watching clouds race across the open sky as the sun sets over the endless sea puts their lives back in perspective.
On Barra, wild camping allows them to bask in the island’s remoteness. Here the beach becomes a bedroom and bathroom, with only the wind and waves for company. As concepts of modernity fade away, they exist from moment to moment, guided by nature’s cues. They drift to sleep pondering their small place in the greater web of life.
Appreciating Traditional Music & Crafts
Beyond its natural wonders, the culture of the Gàidhealtachd comes alive through crafters and musicians carrying on ancient traditions. At workshops on Lewis, they try their hand at Harris tweed weaving and spinning wool from local sheep breeds. On evenings in village pubs, the lively sounds of fiddle and accordion fill the air during impromptu ceilidhs.
As the last ferry leaves, a lone piper stands playing a mournful tune on the pier. Over lunch at a weaver’s cottage, Chris learns of the Gaelic oral traditions used to pass down genealogies, poetry, stories and songs for centuries. Continuing her grandmother’s craft, their host embodies the resiliency keeping this heritage alive. Though remote, these islands brim with the creativity and hospitality of their people.
Braving the Elements
The changeable climate of the Western Isles makes sunny spells all the more precious. When storm clouds gather, Chris and Meg marvel at nature’s power from the sanctuary of a bothy. Horizontal rain lashes the landscape, while wind shrieks across the moor and mountain. They think of generations past riding out such storms in simple blackhouses.
But the ever-shifting sky brings constant wonder too. Vivid rainbows arc from isle to isle as the clouds part. Glinting mica lends sparkle to humble cottages. Double rainbows at midnight evoke the atmospheric phenomenon known as “shepherd’s delight.” And even in horizontal drizzle, the world takes on an ethereal beauty. Each moment brings subtle gifts if you know where to look.
Finding Renewal in Remote Places
Soaking up the slower pace of island life renews Chris and Meg’s appreciation for the basics. As regular routines recede, novelty and spontaneity infuse each day with fresh euphoria. Tasting kelp-infused ice cream on the pier or stumbling on a music session in the pub keeps life brimming with serendipity. With no itinerary beyond the ferry schedule, they float through days here with childlike wonder.
Watching gannets dive under a radiant rainbow, witnessing the Northern Lights flutter in a 3 am sky, standing before Neolithic stones older than comprehension – in this timeless landscape, a sense of one’s smallness becomes profound. They rediscover clarity within the island’s wilds that rejuvenate body and spirit.
Here at the edge of Britain, with just sea and sky and islands between, Chris and Meg find the antidote to modern discontent.
Final Days on the Isle of Lewis
For their final days on the Isle of Lewis, Chris and Meg meander slowly back towards the ferry port at Stornoway. They spend hours exploring the Viking-era ruins at Bostadh, marvelling at the settlers who crossed stormy seas to carve out a life here centuries ago. On their way south, they pause at Carloway Broch – an Iron Age fort older than the great pyramids of Egypt!
At the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village, they gain perspective on the islands’ not-so-distant past when communities lived under thatched roofs without electricity or running water. Life was basic yet interwoven – islanders relied on communal farming and fishing. Leaving the last re-creation of this world behind, Chris and Meg value the simplicity and self-sufficiency it embodies.
Here is the conclusion and FAQ for the 4,000-word blog article:
Conclusion
After six weeks of adventuring the length and breadth of Scotland, Chris and Meg’s journey reaches its end in the remote splendour of the Outer Hebrides. From verdant valleys to rugged peaks, and charming villages to empty wilds, Scotland’s diverse beauty exceeds their expectations daily. But it’s the country’s magnificent wildlife that leaves the deepest impression.
Experiencing incredible species like minke whales, white-tailed eagles and Risso’s dolphins in their natural habitats embodies a profound privilege. Watching wildlife unseen restores a sense of awe lost to modernity. The trips renew Chris and Meg’s commitment to conservation – ensuring these encounters remain possible.
Beyond rare sightings, Scotland’s more common species remind them that the natural world offers wonder everywhere for those with eyes to see. Each bird call, seal sighting and dolphin display conveys nature’s grace. Exploring Scotland’s wild places, Chris and Meg rediscover the peace that comes from feeling part of something greater.
With reopened eyes, ears and hearts, they return home ready to impart their renewed awe and respect for the natural world. If their journey inspires just one person to connect deeper with nature, it will serve its purpose well. For, in the end, we only protect what we truly know and love.
FAQ Chris and Meg’s Wild Summer Episode 6
Q: What makes the Western Isles of Scotland a special destination?
A: The Western Isles offer stunning scenery, from white sand beaches to rugged moorland. The remote location means excellent wildlife viewing opportunities, like spotting white-tailed eagles, whales, and seabirds. Experiencing the historic and Gaelic culture there also provides insight into a unique way of island life.
Q: What wildlife might you see on the Western Isles?
A: Key species to watch for include white-tailed eagles, minke whales, dolphins, seals, seabirds like gannets and puffins, mountain hares, and birds of prey like golden eagles. Otters and pine martens may also be spotted on land.
Q: What is the significance of the Whalebone Arch?
A: The Whalebone Arch on the Isle of Lewis was constructed from the jawbones of a blue whale that washed ashore in the early 1920s. It represents the changing relationship between humans and nature over the past century.
Q: Why are Risso’s dolphins special to spot?
A: Risso’s dolphins are less common than bottlenose or common dolphins in Scottish waters. Their large size and striking heads make them stand out. Spotting the northernmost populations around the Hebrides is an unusual treat.
Q: What makes Steve Dilworth’s artwork so notable?
A: Steve Dilworth creates unique sculptures by contrasting dead island birds preserved in caskets with raw natural materials like driftwood. His work shares a reverence for nature that deeply moves those who understand his ethos.
