Bettany Hughes – Exploring India’s Treasures – The South – Bettany could hardly contain her excitement as the train slowly chugged its way up the lush green hills of Tamil Nadu, bound for the picturesque hill station of Udhagamandalam, more affectionately known as Ooty. She had been looking forward to this trip for months and now it was finally happening. As she gazed out the window, marveling at the stunning valleys and rolling tea estates that flashed by, she thought back to how it all began. Bettany Hughes had stumbled upon some enchanting photos of the famous Nilgiri Mountain Railway online one day and knew she just had to experience the breath-taking journey for herself.
The railway, built by the British in 1908, is renowned for passing through 16 tunnels, 250 bridges, and climbing to an elevation of over 2200 meters as it winds its way from Mettupalayam up to Ooty. After months of planning, booking tickets, and anticipation, Bettany was thrilled when she was finally able to board the iconic blue train in Mettupalayam. The journey proved to be every bit as magical as she imagined. The views were simply spectacular – mist-covered peaks giving way to sprawling tea gardens, pepper vines clinging to hillsides, colorful local villages whizzing by. Bettany loves trains and this was a dream come true. As the train slowly ascended higher into the Nilgiris, the air turned crisper and cooler. Bettany kept her face plastered to the window, not wanting to miss a single moment. She chatted excitedly with fellow travelers, comparing notes and trading stories.
By the time the train finally pulled into Ooty station, Bettany was completely enchanted. She knew this would be a trip she would cherish forever. The breath-taking train ride up to Ooty had exceeded all her expectations and she couldn’t wait to explore more of this stunning hill station. This was only the beginning of an unforgettable adventure. As Bettany stepped off the train and took in the sights and sounds of Ooty station, she was brimming with excitement for her time ahead in this captivating hill town. The station itself was charmingly old-fashioned, with intricate woodwork and arched ceilings that spoke to the history and heritage of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway. Porters scurried about, unloading vintage luggage from the train as passengers spilled out onto the platform. The air was crisp and fresh, a welcome change from the humidity of the plains. Ooty sits perched over 7,000 feet above sea level and Bettany could immediately feel the difference in climate.
 
She took a deep breath, inhaling the clean mountain air. Just outside the station, Bettany found a bustling bazaar with vendors selling hot tea, spices, woolen scarves and all manner of local handicrafts. The colors and scents were intoxicating. Bettany wandered the market eagerly, snapping photos and chatting with smiling locals. She purchased some aromatic nilgiri tea to take home as a souvenir. The sun was shining brightly and Bettany knew she wanted to make the most of her first day in Ooty. After finding her cozy homestay nestled in the hills, Bettany ventured out to explore the town. She hiked up to Dodabetta Peak, which boasts panoramic vistas of the stunning Nilgiri hills. As she walked along manicured botanical gardens, she was awestruck by the diversity of flowers and plants that thrive in Ooty’s unique ecosystem.
Later she enjoyed high tea at a colonial era hotel, savoring buttery scones and local black tea while gazing out over the town. The day ended with a boat ride on Ooty Lake, where Bettany was able to glimpse rare mountain birds and towering eucalyptus trees reflecting off the calm waters at sunset. Exhausted but utterly content, Bettany returned to her homestay cottage ready to rest up for another day of adventures in this south Indian paradise. She knew this trip would leave her with lifelong memories of extraordinary beauty, culture and nature. The breath-taking train journey was only her first taste of the magic of Ooty.
Bettany Hughes – Exploring India’s Treasures – The South Discovering India’s Enchanting Nilgiri Mountain Railway
Bettany could hardly contain her excitement as the train slowly chugged its way up the lush green hills of Tamil Nadu, bound for the picturesque hill station of Udhagamandalam, more affectionately known as Ooty. She had been looking forward to this trip for months and now it was finally happening. As she gazed out the window, marveling at the stunning valleys and rolling tea estates that flashed by, she thought back to how it all began.
Bettany had stumbled upon some enchanting photos of the famous Nilgiri Mountain Railway online one day and knew she just had to experience the breath-taking journey for herself. The railway, built by the British in 1908, is renowned for passing through 16 tunnels, 250 bridges, and climbing to an elevation of over 2200 meters as it winds its way from Mettupalayam up to Ooty. After months of planning, booking tickets, and anticipation, Bettany was thrilled when she was finally able to board the iconic blue train in Mettupalayam.
The journey proved to be every bit as magical as she imagined. The views were simply spectacular – mist-covered peaks giving way to sprawling tea gardens, pepper vines clinging to hillsides, colorful local villages whizzing by. Bettany loves trains and this was a dream come true. As the train slowly ascended higher into the Nilgiris, the air turned crisper and cooler. Bettany kept her face plastered to the window, not wanting to miss a single moment. She chatted excitedly with fellow travelers, comparing notes and trading stories. By the time the train finally pulled into Ooty station, Bettany was completely enchanted. She knew this would be a trip she would cherish forever. The breath-taking train ride up to Ooty had exceeded all her expectations and she couldn’t wait to explore more of this stunning hill station. This was only the beginning of an unforgettable adventure.
Winding Through Lush Landscapes and Engineering Marvels
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway departs daily from Mettupalayam station, situated at the foothills of the Nilgiris. As the train slowly winds its way upwards, the landscape transforms from tropical plains to verdant hills dotted with tea estates. The journey takes about 5 hours to span the 46 km distance and climbs from 330 meters to 2,203 meters.
Built by the British between 1891-1908, the railway is considered an engineering marvel. It utilizes special rack and adhesion tracks to conquer the steep gradient. As it ascends higher, the train passes through 16 tunnels and over 250 bridges, including some impressive viaducts with valley views. The longest tunnel is 153 meters. For train enthusiasts like Bettany, it is incredible to experience these feats of engineering while surrounded by stunning scenery.
Some of the most beautiful sections pass through tea estates. The rolling hills blanketed in neat rows of tea bushes present some of the most picture-perfect views. Tamil Nadu is one of the top tea producers in India, with the Nilgiris amongst the country’s prime tea growing regions. Passing the emerald fields, Bettany imagined herself joining the tea pickers. She made a mental note to visit a tea factory later to learn more about the cultivation and production process.
Playful Encounters Along the Way
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway makes several stops during the picturesque journey, allowing passengers to take in the fresh air and unique sights. At Hillgrove station, Bettany was delighted to spot a troop of monkeys scampering about on the platform. The cheeky creatures knew the train’s timetable well, arriving in anticipation of snacks from passengers.
One particularly bold fellow leaped right into the carriage looking for treats. Laughing, Bettany obliged by offering some banana she had packed for her own lunch. The mischievous monkeys played gleefully on the train before scurrying back to the trees as the engine whistled, ready to depart.
At Runnymede station, Bettany caught sight of a lumbering Indian elephant ambling across the tracks. She learned his nickname was “Elephant Boo” from a local seller peddling homemade spices and teas to passengers. The man chuckled that Elephant Boo liked to make an appearance to remind people this was his domain. Elephant spottings are rare but possible in these forests. Bettany felt blessed to witness this gentle giant in the wilderness.
Immersed in History and Natural Beauty
After a relaxed morning chugging through rugged landscapes, the train finally arrived at Ooty station. The town emerged as a hill station in the early 1800s when the British developed it as a summer retreat to escape the sweltering heat of India’s plains. Ooty charms with beautiful gardens, lakes, and rolling hills enveloped in mist. Temperatures rarely exceed 25°C, providing welcome relief.
Riding the heritage train, Bettany felt transported back in time to an era of hill stations dotted with colonial cottages and prestigious ‘public schools’. But Ooty’s history stretches back centuries before the British settled here. There is evidence of indigenous tribal communities inhabiting these hills since prehistoric times. Ancient pottery shards discovered in caves indicate human settlement dating back over 8,000 years.
The local Toda tribespeople have strong ties to the Nilgiri landscape. Their traditional villages called ‘munds’ are built near streams and grazed by buffalo herds. Toda women are renowned for embroidering their distinctive black robes with intricate designs. Bettany was honored to receive an invitation to visit a Toda village and learn about their embroideries and dairy-based cuisine. She gained insight into the tribe’s customs linked to nature and buffalo.
Winding Down with Nilgiri Hospitality
After an exhilarating day exploring tea estates and eucalyptus forests, Bettany was ready to rest her feet at a local homestay. She was warmly welcomed by her host Lakshmi who served fragrant Nilgiri tea on the patio as the sun set. Lakshmi shared stories of growing up in the hills that her family has called home for generations.
Over a dinner of tasty local favorites like ragi mudde, apple pies, and bun omelettes, Lakshmi gave Bettany tips to make the most of her time in Ooty. She recommended scenic treks to Dodabetta Peak for breathtaking valley views and boat rides on Ooty Lake to see reflections of the hills.
Bettany drifted off to sleep dreaming of waking up to misty mornings with hot chai. She felt incredibly grateful for the chance to experience the people, cuisine, and culture of the region. The train had brought her into the heart of the Nilgiris where she found not just enchanting landscapes but also genuine warmth.
Winding Back Down the Mountainside
The next morning, Bettany sadly had to bid farewell to Ooty and retrace the winding railway back down the mountain. The views she had journeyed upwards to admire looked just as stunning in reverse on the descent. Watching the landscape change from the hill station’s manicured gardens back to wild forests and finally to the plains filled Bettany with nostalgia already.
On the return trip, Bettany noticed details she had missed on the way up, like the old rail bridges and tunnels etched with all the names of people who helped construct them decades ago. She realized there was still so much she hadn’t seen and made a promise to herself to come back one day.
As the train pulled into Mettupalayam, Bettany recounted all the special moments from her short but sweet time in the Nilgiris. From spying monkeys at Hillgrove to sipping chai with Lakshmi and hearing tales of the Toda, it had been a journey full of wonder. Though it was hard to leave, Bettany knew this was just the start of her love affair with India’s diverse landscapes and cultures.
Planning Your Own Nilgiri Mountain Railway Adventure
If exploring the Nilgiri Mountain Railway has sparked your wanderlust, here are some tips to plan your own journey:
- Check the railway schedule in advance as only a few trains run daily. Make reservations early as seats fill up.
- Try to book seats on the left side of the train going up for better views, and the right side coming down.
- Depart from Mettupalayam station to experience the full route. The Coonoor departure misses the most scenic stretches.
- Pack light snacks and bottled water for the 5-6 hour journey. But don’t miss the chai at stops!
- Carry your camera gear – the landscapes are phenomenal. Avoid using flash to respect the train experience.
- Check if heritage steam engines are running during your travel dates for that old-world charm.
- Stay a few days in Ooty or Coonoor to relax and see the highlights at a leisurely pace.
- Pre-arrange a taxi or car rental in Ooty to comfortably explore the hill station and surroundings.
- However you choose to experience it, a journey on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway promises to be an unforgettable highlight of India. Let the stunning hills and colorful culture inspire your own epic story!
Conclusion
The Nilgiri Mountain Railway weaves together natural wonders, engineering marvels, vibrant culture, and colonial history into one unforgettable journey. For train lovers like Bettany, it represents a dream rail adventure with breathtaking scenery around every bend. Beyond just the train, the Nilgiri region offers layers of treasures to uncover, from tea estates shrouded in mist to tribal villages steeped in ancient traditions. Travelers seeking to immerse in the landscape, people, and culture of real places find in the Nilgiris a destination that engages all the senses. The train ride acts as a portal into a place and time shaped by the confluence of geography, communities, and history over centuries. While modernization continues to spread, the heritage railway retains its allure for those seeking to disconnect from the everyday and lose themselves in the magic of the journey. Rail fans and adventurous souls will forever be drawn to the romance of the rails in India’s lovely Nilgiri hills.
FAQs – Bettany Hughes – Exploring India’s Treasures – The South
What is the elevation gain of the Nilgiri Mountain Railway?
The railway climbs from an elevation of 326 meters at Mettupalayam to 2,203 meters at Ooty, an elevation gain of 1,877 meters using special rack and adhesion tracks.
What is the best time of year to ride the Nilgiri Mountain Railway?
The weather is ideal to ride the railway between October to early March when skies are clearer for views without heavy monsoon rains.
How long does the full trip take from Mettupalayam to Ooty?
The complete uphill journey takes around 5 hours to cover the 46 kilometer distance. The return trip down takes slightly less time at around 4.5 hours.
What types of tea are grown in the Nilgiri region?
The Nilgiris produce both black teas like Assam as well as some distinctive green teas. Common varieties include Orange Pekoe, Broken Orange Pekoe, and Dust teas.
How are the Nilgiri Mountain Railway trains powered?
The heritage trains use steam locomotives, while some modern services rely on diesel power. There are efforts to increase steam operations for nostalgia.
