In Gardeners World episode 7 2017, Monty Don continues work in his courtyard, where he gives advice on plants which thrive on shady walls, sows root crops in the vegetable garden and catches up on work in his cottage garden.
Joe Swift pays a visit to a small-town garden to find out how an interior designer has transformed her outdoor space, and gives tips on how to bring elements of design into back gardens. The team meet Charles Dowding who, since the 1980s, has pioneered the practice of ‘no dig’ organic gardening. Plus Flo Headlam showcases her golden jubilee plant.
Gardeners World episode 7 2017
A Comprehensive Guide to Planting Roses for a Flourishing Garden
At Beautiful Blossoms, we understand the importance of planting roses to create a vibrant and fragrant garden. We are dedicated to providing you with all the necessary knowledge and tools to ensure your rose bushes flourish. In this guide, we will cover everything from choosing the right location to post-planting care for your roses.
Selecting the Perfect Rose Variety
Before you begin planting, it’s crucial to select the right variety of rose for your garden. Consider factors such as colour, fragrance, and overall size. Additionally, think about the type of rose bush, be it climbing, shrub, or ground cover roses. Each variety has its unique requirements and benefits, so it’s essential to make an informed decision.
Preparing the Soil
To provide your roses with the best possible foundation, follow these steps for soil preparation:
- Check soil pH: Roses thrive in slightly acidic to neutral soil, with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0. Conduct a soil test and amend the soil as needed to achieve the ideal pH.
- Improve soil structure: Incorporate organic matter like well-rotted manure or compost into the soil. This enhances the soil’s fertility, drainage, and water retention capabilities.
- Dig a hole: For bare-root roses, dig a hole 45cm wide and 45cm deep. For container-grown roses, dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the container.
Choosing the Ideal Location
Roses require a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, preferably in the morning. Ensure adequate spacing between rose bushes to promote air circulation, which reduces the risk of diseases. For larger rose varieties, consider providing a support structure like a trellis.
Planting Bare-Root Roses
- Soak the roots: Immerse the roots in water for 12-24 hours before planting to hydrate them.
- Prune damaged roots: Trim any damaged, broken, or excessively long roots.
- Create a cone-shaped mound: In the centre of the hole, build a mound of soil for the roots to drape over.
- Position the rose: Place the rose on the mound, ensuring the bud union (the point where the stems meet the roots) is at soil level or slightly above in colder regions.
- Backfill the hole: Fill the hole with soil, gently pressing it down around the roots. Water thoroughly to settle the soil.
Planting Container-Grown Roses
- Remove the rose from the container: Gently remove the rose from its container, taking care not to damage the roots.
- Loosen the roots: Gently tease out the roots to encourage them to grow outward into the surrounding soil.
- Position the rose: Place the rose in the hole, ensuring the soil level in the container is at the same level as the garden soil.
- Backfill the hole: Fill the hole with soil, gently pressing it down around the root ball. Water thoroughly to settle the soil.
Watering and Post-Planting Care
Proper watering and care are essential for maintaining healthy rose bushes. Follow these guidelines to ensure your roses flourish:
- Watering: Newly planted roses require consistent moisture, so water deeply once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and soil type. As the roses become established, you can reduce watering frequency. Be sure to water the soil, not the foliage, to reduce the risk of diseases.
- Mulching: Apply a 5-7cm layer of organic mulch, such as well-rotted manure, compost, or bark chips, around the base of the rose. This helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
- Feeding: Roses are heavy feeders and require regular fertilisation. Apply a balanced, slow-release fertiliser in spring, and top it up with liquid feeds throughout the growing season.
- Pruning: Prune your roses annually in late winter or early spring to promote healthy growth, air circulation, and abundant blooms. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood, and shape the bush according to its type and growth habit.
- Pest and disease control: Monitor your roses regularly for signs of pests and diseases. Treat any issues promptly using appropriate control measures, such as horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps, or fungicides.
By carefully selecting the ideal rose variety, preparing the soil, and providing proper post-planting care, your garden will boast beautiful, fragrant roses that are the envy of your neighbours. With our comprehensive guide, you are well-equipped to create a thriving rose garden that will bring you joy for years to come.
Climbers and wall shrubs for shade – Gardeners World episode 7 2017
North- or east-facing walls and fences often receive very little direct sunlight, but that doesn’t mean you can’t grow plants in these places. When choosing a climber or wall shrub for such a spot, choose one that can cope with cold and shady conditions.
Once upon a time, my garden was a sun-drenched haven, filled with bright and colourful plants that thrived in the light. As the years passed, I watched the tall trees grow, casting a veil of shade over parts of the garden. It was then that I discovered a new world of plants that are often overlooked – climbers and wall shrubs for shade. With my newfound passion, I embarked on a journey to transform my once shadowy garden boundaries into a thriving, verdant oasis.
At first, I was unsure how to approach shade gardening, but I soon realised that there was a wealth of knowledge at my fingertips. I delved into the world of shady conditions, embracing shade-loving climbers and wall shrubs that were just as beautiful as their sun-loving counterparts. My fences and walls became a canvas for these botanical masterpieces, each one contributing to a living tapestry that embraced the shadows and created a unique ambience in my garden.
As I continued my journey, I began to appreciate the nuances of shade gardening. I learned that plants for shady areas often require additional water and annual mulches of garden compost to maintain moist soil. This simple practice allowed my climbers and wall shrubs to flourish, and I was soon rewarded with a stunning display of foliage and flowers.
A Symphony of Climbers and Wall Shrubs for Shade
In my quest to create a shade garden like no other, I turned to a variety of climbers and wall shrubs that brought life to my garden boundaries. I watched in awe as they climbed, cascaded and clung to fences and walls, transforming my garden into a living work of art.
Climbing Honeysuckle: The Sweet-Scented Performer
The climbing honeysuckle was one of the first shade-loving climbers to grace my garden. With its bold-leaved hostas and sweet fragrance, it quickly became a favourite, casting a spell of enchantment over the shady corners of my garden.
Japanese Quince: A Burst of Colour in the Shade
Next, I introduced the Japanese quince, Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Moerloosei’, to my garden. This hardy wall shrub, with its vibrant blooms and climbing roses, added a touch of elegance and romance to my garden, making it a cherished addition to my shade-loving plant collection.
Holly-leaved Sweet Spire: A Versatile Shade-LoverThe holly-leaved sweet spire, also known as Akebia trifoliata, was a revelation in my shade gardening journey. With its lush foliage and delicate flowers, it was not only a beautiful addition to my garden but also a versatile one. The sweet spire could be trained and pruned to fit a variety of spaces, making it an invaluable component of my garden’s design.
Caring for Your Shade Garden
A shade garden may seem like a daunting task, but with a little love and attention, it can become an enchanting sanctuary filled with climbers and wall shrubs.
Composting Woody Waste
A key aspect of maintaining a shade garden is managing the woody waste that accumulates from pruning and fallen branches. By shredding and composting this waste, I created a rich, fertile garden compost that was perfect for annual mulches and provided the nourishment my plants needed to thrive in the shade.
Renovating Overgrown Plants
As time went on, some of my climbers and wall shrubs began to outgrow their allotted spaces. It was then that I learned the art of taking cuttings, training and pruning my plants to maintain their beauty and ensure the health of my shade garden. This ongoing process of renovation not only kept my plants in check but also allowed me to share my love for shade-loving plants with friends and family.
Adapting to Changing Conditions
One lesson I learned from my journey into shade gardening was the importance of adapting to the ever-changing conditions of my garden. As the trees grew taller, new areas of shade emerged, requiring me to reassess and adjust my plant choices accordingly. This constant evolution of my garden kept me engaged and passionate about the world of climbers and wall shrubs for shade.
A Garden That Grows with You
My journey into the realm of shade gardening has been a transformative experience. What began as a challenge to overcome has blossomed into a deep love and appreciation for the climbers and wall shrubs that bring life to the shady corners of my garden. Through trial and error, perseverance and passion, I have created a garden that is not only a sanctuary for me but also a living testament to the beauty and resilience of these often overlooked plants.
As my shade garden continues to grow and evolve, so too does my connection with the climbers and wall shrubs that inhabit it. They have taught me valuable lessons about adaptation, patience, and the beauty that lies in the shadows. I invite you to embark on your own shade gardening journey, exploring the enchanting world of climbers and wall shrubs for shade, and creating a garden that truly reflects your unique vision and passion for the art of gardening.
Carrots – Gardeners World episode 7 2017
They come in shapes and colours other than long and orange – look out for round carrots, as well as unusual colours such as red and yellow, there are even purple carrots.
Carrots can be grown in containers if you are short on space, or if your soil is heavy clay or very stony. Sow regularly for prolonged cropping.They freeze and store well too, but like most vegetables, carrots taste best freshly picked from the garden.
Carrots are a root vegetable, scientifically known as Daucus carota. They are native to Europe and southwestern Asia, but have been cultivated worldwide due to their popularity as a food source. Carrots are typically orange in color, but can also be found in purple, yellow, red, and white varieties. They are a rich source of vitamins and minerals, especially beta-carotene (which is converted into vitamin A in the body), vitamin K, potassium, and dietary fiber.
Carrots are a versatile vegetable that can be eaten raw, steamed, boiled, roasted, or incorporated into various dishes such as soups, stews, salads, and more. They are often used as a base for many recipes due to their natural sweetness and ability to blend well with other flavors.
In addition to their culinary uses, carrots are also known for their potential health benefits. Regular consumption of carrots is associated with improved vision, reduced risk of heart disease, and potential cancer prevention, among other benefits. This is largely due to the presence of antioxidants, such as beta-carotene, and other nutrients found in carrots.
No-dig alternatives
Digging has many advantages; but it can take its toll on your back. Luckily there are ‘no-dig’ alternatives. Digging is mainly needed to control weeds and occasionally to incorporate lime, phosphorus and potassium. These often penetrate soil slowly and in cases of deficiency need help. Digging is also beneficial to restore the structure lost when wet soil is trampled. Good soil dries to little crumbs and if damaged when wet these are lost, but they can be restored by digging and manuring.
No-dig gardening, also known as no-till or lasagna gardening, is an approach to cultivating and maintaining gardens without disturbing the soil through digging or tilling. This method helps preserve soil structure, maintain a healthy ecosystem for microorganisms, and reduce soil erosion. There are several no-dig alternatives that you can use to create a thriving garden:
- Sheet mulching: This involves layering organic materials, such as cardboard, newspaper, compost, and mulch, directly on top of the soil. Over time, the layers break down and improve soil structure, adding nutrients to the soil. This method also helps suppress weeds and retain moisture.
- Raised beds: Building raised garden beds above the ground allows you to control the soil quality and structure without disturbing the existing soil. Fill the beds with a high-quality, nutrient-rich soil mix, and plant your crops in the raised beds.
- Straw bale gardening: This method uses straw bales as a planting medium. The bales are conditioned with water and an organic nitrogen source to initiate decomposition, creating a nutrient-rich, well-draining environment for plants. Once the bales are conditioned, you can plant your crops directly in the bales.
- Hugelkultur: This technique involves creating raised garden beds by piling logs, branches, and other woody debris, then covering them with soil, compost, and mulch. As the wood decomposes, it releases nutrients into the soil and helps retain moisture, creating a fertile environment for plant growth.
- Square foot gardening: This method maximizes space by dividing the garden into small, densely planted squares. Each square foot is planted with a specific number of plants, depending on the crop type. This method often requires less digging, as the close spacing of plants helps to suppress weeds and maintain soil structure.
Regardless of the no-dig method you choose, it’s essential to maintain soil fertility by regularly adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, and practicing crop rotation to prevent nutrient depletion and discourage pests and diseases.
